Caring for your Holland Lop or Lion Head
First you need a cage. I prefer my cages to be atleast three times the size of the rabbit because they spend the most time there so you want them to be comfortable and not cramped into a confined space. You will need bedding, shelter of some kind, a food bowl, a water dish, and a litter box.
For bedding i prefer to use pine wood shavings (no cedar which can be deadly to some rabbits). For the litter i like to use pine pellet kitty litter(some people prefer different i don't recommend the clay brands because they can clump and dry to the bunnies feet). For food i use the blue seal show hutch deluxe(available at most feed stores, i also recommend oxbow bunny food, any number of foods can be sufficient as long as the crude fiber level is lower. Too much fiber makes over active bunnies, and unless your bunny is out of the cage for more than an hour a day i don't recommend high fibers). Timothy hay is the best choice, but you could also feed your bunny alf alfa hay which is high in fiber. I prefer to use a weighted porcelain/ceramic bowl for food, and a mounted water bottle.
Holland Lops are very popular for their personalities. They are out going, love attention, and have been referred to by many as dog like. They are very easy to train (litter train as well as to do tricks). As far as my experience goes all Hollands I've met/owned have been sweet and cuddly. If you look in the photo album for Thumper you can see my whole room is set up to his liking. If your bunny will be out of the cage free to roam be sure to make it bunny proof. For example block off behind appliances so bunnies won't get stuck, moving electrical cords out of reach, and (if you have other pets) put other dogs or cats etc away so the bunny will be free from harm. Also from personal experience if your bunny is roaming you might want to put a jingle collar on (only while out of the cage) so that no one steps on an unsuspecting bunny and rule out the possibility of vet visits.
As far as treats go every owner/breeder has a different opinion. Hollands are very small rabbits therefore it takes their digestive tract longer to reach full maturity. Some people will say to go the first year without treats only giving them food and hay. Some will say age does not matter. From personal experience I wait until 8 months. In my opinion if they can breed at 6 months of age then they can have snacks. As far as what to give them again everyone has their own opinion. I stay simple with small amounts of cabbage, lettuce, or carrots.
Bathing is also another touchy subject with rabbit owners. I say absolutely Do Not bathe your own rabbit if you have no prior experience. I am a dog/cat groomer for 12 years already(im only 21). If you are prepared to face the consequences in case bathing goes wrong, here are a few tips to help avoid potential problems. Don't bathe your bunny when its cold or unless its absolutely necessary(unless your bunny loves baths). In the sink or bath tub use luke warm water and only fill it enough so that the bottom is covered or just enough to cover bunnies back feet. Do Not use soap. Do Not get ears wet. Do Not get water in nose. if your bunny panics or is very nervous take them out towel dry them very well. Another topic up for debate is whether to use a hair dryer on them. I say its perfectly fine but here are more tips. Keep the dryer six inches from the skin. Alternate between hot and cold keeping it almost room temperature. Do Not blow dry ears.
If properly cared for and spayed/neutered Hollands can live up to ten plus years.
For bedding i prefer to use pine wood shavings (no cedar which can be deadly to some rabbits). For the litter i like to use pine pellet kitty litter(some people prefer different i don't recommend the clay brands because they can clump and dry to the bunnies feet). For food i use the blue seal show hutch deluxe(available at most feed stores, i also recommend oxbow bunny food, any number of foods can be sufficient as long as the crude fiber level is lower. Too much fiber makes over active bunnies, and unless your bunny is out of the cage for more than an hour a day i don't recommend high fibers). Timothy hay is the best choice, but you could also feed your bunny alf alfa hay which is high in fiber. I prefer to use a weighted porcelain/ceramic bowl for food, and a mounted water bottle.
Holland Lops are very popular for their personalities. They are out going, love attention, and have been referred to by many as dog like. They are very easy to train (litter train as well as to do tricks). As far as my experience goes all Hollands I've met/owned have been sweet and cuddly. If you look in the photo album for Thumper you can see my whole room is set up to his liking. If your bunny will be out of the cage free to roam be sure to make it bunny proof. For example block off behind appliances so bunnies won't get stuck, moving electrical cords out of reach, and (if you have other pets) put other dogs or cats etc away so the bunny will be free from harm. Also from personal experience if your bunny is roaming you might want to put a jingle collar on (only while out of the cage) so that no one steps on an unsuspecting bunny and rule out the possibility of vet visits.
As far as treats go every owner/breeder has a different opinion. Hollands are very small rabbits therefore it takes their digestive tract longer to reach full maturity. Some people will say to go the first year without treats only giving them food and hay. Some will say age does not matter. From personal experience I wait until 8 months. In my opinion if they can breed at 6 months of age then they can have snacks. As far as what to give them again everyone has their own opinion. I stay simple with small amounts of cabbage, lettuce, or carrots.
Bathing is also another touchy subject with rabbit owners. I say absolutely Do Not bathe your own rabbit if you have no prior experience. I am a dog/cat groomer for 12 years already(im only 21). If you are prepared to face the consequences in case bathing goes wrong, here are a few tips to help avoid potential problems. Don't bathe your bunny when its cold or unless its absolutely necessary(unless your bunny loves baths). In the sink or bath tub use luke warm water and only fill it enough so that the bottom is covered or just enough to cover bunnies back feet. Do Not use soap. Do Not get ears wet. Do Not get water in nose. if your bunny panics or is very nervous take them out towel dry them very well. Another topic up for debate is whether to use a hair dryer on them. I say its perfectly fine but here are more tips. Keep the dryer six inches from the skin. Alternate between hot and cold keeping it almost room temperature. Do Not blow dry ears.
If properly cared for and spayed/neutered Hollands can live up to ten plus years.
Deadly Vegitation to be aware of when feeding/walking your rabbit in the grass.
Coming soon